Sasha DiGiulian First Woman to Free-Climb El Capitan’s Longest Route Despite Storms

Sasha DiGiulian conquers El Capitan’s longest route amid harsh weather

American climber Sasha DiGiulian made history by becoming the first woman to free-climb El Capitan’s longest route, the Platinum route, known for its extreme difficulty and length. Her ascent took 23 days, involving intense preparation, harsh weather, and extraordinary mental toughness.

DiGiulian began her climb in early November with her partner, Elliot Faber, who helped establish the route but had not previously climbed it. The Platinum route spans roughly 3,000 feet and includes 39 pitches, a vertical granite wall located in Yosemite National Park, California.

After nine days of climbing, an unexpected storm forced DiGiulian and Faber to pause on the 32nd pitch known as the Golden Edge. They endured wind, rain, cold, and even snow during this forced break. DiGiulian described it as both a mental and physical challenge as they were “stripped of any sense of normal.”

To survive, they rationed supplies such as freeze-dried meals and a self-invented protein bar called Send bars. Sleep was difficult with the tent door flapping and ice falling from above. Still, they appreciated the breathtaking mountain views and time for reflection.

Once the weather improved, DiGiulian and Faber resumed climbing despite slick, wet rock conditions and falling ice chunks. Unfortunately, Faber had to leave just short of the summit due to a family emergency. DiGiulian waited two days hoping for his return, but ultimately climbed the final stretch alone with his blessing.

Her success marked a significant achievement in rock climbing history. Known for winning a world championship and inspiring others, DiGiulian described climbing as a space where she can focus fully and love puzzle solving. She noted how the Platinum route had “consumed” her in recent years, finally achieving the goal against enormous physical and mental obstacles.

El Capitan is famous thanks to climbers like Alex Honnold, featured in the documentary Free Solo. Annually, tens of thousands attempt its various free-climbing routes, most taking between five to seven days. DiGiulian’s 23-day solo ascent of the most challenging route further cements her place among the sport’s elite and showcases the relentless spirit required for such feats.